Eight years ago, Christian Aid sent me to Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Before my visit, Central Asia was a place I hadn’t really thought about, that had no defining features in my consciousness. Yet once there, I was captivated by the two countries and wanted to learn more about them. My experience was shaped by the tension between the sense of an ancient heritage and modern soviet anonymity. Complex fluid identities were feeling their way through evolving nation-statehood – while remaining proud of their importance to the world’s history over the past 3000 years. I saw great beauty in the places and people I visited, facing hospitality and suspicion, and contrasts of arid and fertile landscapes.



Yesterday evening we arrived at the Buccaneers Lodge and Backpackers resort, just outside of East London, in Chintsa West. Established back in 1983, these guys are considered one of the early pioneers in the South African backpacking industry. After a little confusion over the sleeping arrangements we check in and enjoy an evening meal of South African braai with potatoes and vegetables. A few Castles later and we retire for the evening.
